Assembly of CoolWhip™ Air Slot1 on the Pentium III
| When you unpack your CoolWhip™ heat sink,
the package should (amongst others) contain at least the following: - 1 pcs. CoolWhip™ Copper heat sink with 2 fans - 1 pcs. Rear plate which is not required for Pentium mounting! - 4 pcs. Nylon-screws - 4 pcs. springs and nylon bushings not required for Pentium mounting! - 4 pcs. Nylon-hex nuts - Heat sink compound (may already be applied to the heat sink for your convenience) |
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| Here you have the original Intel
Pentium III processor with the retail Cooler mounted. It needs to go off
first! |
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In order to remove the original cooler it is necessary first to remove the plastic-cover with the fan. This is best done by pressing on the clamping "legs" which holds the cover in place and lifting the cover up at the same time. When you have it raised app. an inch at one end, you can drag it sideways, so it slips off at the other end too. |
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| Now you are ready to take off the heat sink
itself, and this is best done by extracting the small plastic-splits
with a suitable tool (as shown on the picture, we have good experience
using a PC spare slot cover sitting covering the holes in unused PICK/ISA
plug-in card slots) If you don't want to make any marks in the original heat sink, you could place a cloth underneath the tool towards the heat sink first. A swift and firm tip, and the splits will come up with a "squeaking" sound (this is the way it should sound if you do it right) |
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| The heat sink itself will now either
fall off by itself, or you can twist it off by turning right and left
around. Here you have the parts taken apart: Pentium III, plastic-splits and heat sink. |
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| When mounting the CoolWhip™ as a
"passive" heat sink, you can actually use the original rear plate
of the Pentium III, but in order to do that, you
need to cut off app. 2-3mm of the small plastic rods holding the PCB in
place on the rear plate, otherwise they will prevent proper thermal
contact between the heat sink and the CPU. Use a pair of pliers to cut the rods down to level with the CPU. |
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| Same procedure applies to the clips
next to the rods locking the PCB in place. You can actually just bend them aside, but otherwise just cut them to level or cut them off entirely, as they are actually not needed in any case. |
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| Now you are ready to place the CPU
on top of the heat sink. Remove the protective foil covering the heat sink compound. pry off any excessive compound on top of the "slug" on the CPU. |
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| Distribute it in a thin layer all over the "slug" (however tiny it is). | ![]() |
| Screw on a hex-nut on each nylon screw all the way up to the head of the screw, and press the screws through the holes of the rear plate, where the self-locking taps holding the original heat sink in place were sitting before, continue until they stick out on the other side. | ![]() |
| Here you can see the screws just sticking up from the holes in the PCB of the processor. | ![]() |
| Now press the CPU on top of the CoolWhip™ heat sink, and turn it a little back and forth in small circular
movements, until you feel there is contact between the "slug"
and the heat sink. Hereafter you can turn the screws until you feel natural resistance, that they have hit the bottom of the heat sink treaded hole. |
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| After this you can counter fit, by
turning the hex nuts clockwise towards the rear plate until they tighten
the CPU against the heat sink. The original Intel rear plate insures that the holding force is applied only on top of the CPU, thus not bending the PCB. (due to the lens of the camera it looks as if the PCB is bent here, but that is actually not the case in reality) As a matter of fact be sure that your PCB does not bend. |
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| You have now completed mounting the
most compact high efficiency Coolers on the market to you Pentium III,
and it should preferably look something like this. If it is as blurry as here on the picture to the right, you have to clean your glasses, (or do it all over again). If you have followed all the guidance given here, your CPU should not become more than app. 50-51 degrees Celsius measured on the CPU at 558Mhz, 2.1V full load and 30 degrees Celsius inside the Cabinet. |
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Important! When
placing the Processor back into the motherboard, be sure
to press directly on the processor PCB (not just the heat sink), insuring
that it is firmly down in place in the Slot1 connector. Check
that no one of the screws are blocking at a Capacitor or the ATX Power connector,
if this is the case cut a little of the screw causing the block.
Connect the wires from the Fans to the MainBoard, and you should be ready to
roll, except.....
WARNING! some motherboards (ABIT in particular), have not been designed to utilize Fans that are this power consuming. Therefore you should instead use an adapter cable from your HD power-connection, otherwise you risk destroying the Fan outlet of the Motherboard! (We can off-course also supply such an adapter).