Mounting of CoolWhip Air Slot1 Peltier upgrade for Celeron

 

When you open your CoolWhip Air Slot1 Peltier upgrade package, it should contain at least the following items (there may be more screws and nuts, but never mind):
- 1 pcs. thermally insulated rearplate
- 1 pcs. Peltier element with powerplugs for Fans
- 1 pcs. Copper Coolplate 40x40mm for Celeron.
- 3 pcs. Insulation Gaskets
- 1 pcs. Double adheicieve Thermal pad.
- 1 bag of 4 pcs. each nylon screws, hexnuts, cylindric and flat bushings
- 1 bottle of sunlotion (just kidding) heatsink compound
may allready be applied to the products)

 
Here you see the Celeron CPU without the original Cooler.
First you apply the thermal transfer pad all way round the "Slogg" of the CPU.
Peal off the protective foil from the light blue side of the pad, and start placing it with the end of the pad next to the edge of the slog, not the edge of the CPU, placing the next piece to the edge of the previously mounted, this makes it easier to fit the last piece.
(If you want a temperature Probe mounted on your CPU place it under one of the thermal pads now)
Allways cut the pad off at the edge of the CPU, and continue all way round the "Slogg".

Pay attention to avoid any gaps between the individual pads! With a Scalpel you should now remove the allmost invisible transparrent Plastic foil on the orange side of the pads (now facing you), this step is very important, not only will it not work if you omit this, but it will furthermore prevent the Coolplate to make direct contact with the "Slogg" of the CPU, because the Pads will be too high!!!

Correctly mounted the thermal Pads will both improve the thermal transcontact to the CPU, and prevent Condensation between the CoolPlate and the CPU.
Cut off any excessive Gap-Pad material, and you have finished the preparation of the CPU.
Remove the plastic foil covering the thermal heatsink Compound on the Peltier element, and distribute it all over the the surface in a very thin layer.
As the Heatsink and the Peltier element are completely straight, it is not necessary to maintain more than a very thin layer all over the Peltier surface, otherwise the thermal contact will deteriate instead of being improved.
Press the Peltier element towards the Heatsink, and rub it firmly back and forth and to the sides while maintaining a firm preasure towards the Coolplate.
Take it off again and reinsure that heatsink Compound is distributed all over the surface where the Peltier was placed. If not distribute it better and try again.
Placethe Pelter element back again on the Heatsink, and move it from side to side, or twist it a little clock and counter-clockwise, untill you detect a scratching noise between the Ceramic material of the Peltier and the Copper surface of the Heatsink. Finally align it properly on the centre of the Heatsink.

 
Now you can place the insulation Gaskets.

Start with the one facing the Heatsink. It is one of the thick Gaskets you should use here. Note it should be placed underneath the electric wires. If it has not allready been done, you need to make cut-outs for the wires (but not all the way to the edge leave a bit of insulation so the insulation remains in one piece!)

Here after you place the next layer, using the second thick piece of insulation Gasket.
Finally you should place the last thin piece of insulation Gasket on the CPU PCB.

Pay attention to the holes in the Gasket, that they fit over the holes in the PCB.
Well here you are, finished with the insulation, ready for the final assembly.

Remove the Plastic foil covering the heatsink Compound on the Coolplate, and distribute the Compound all over the surface in a thin layer on the CoolPlate, with a finger, any surplus Compound can be distributed on the CPU and the Thermal transfer Pad, closing any gaps between the individual pieces and the "Slogg".

 
Now you are ready to place the CPU on the Coolplate.

Press the CPU towards the CoolPLate, and rub it slightly back and forth just a little bit avoiding the PAD to come off, untill you fell metal to metal scratching contact.

Take a little screw, and stick it through the holes in the PCB all the way through the insulation, you may need to slip/slide the Gaskets a little back and forth, untill you are able to hit the hole down in the heatsink. repeat this step in the hole diagonally accross, ensuring it is all in place. Remove the Screws again carefully, and remember to place the 4 nylon cylindric bushings over each of the holes in the PCB, so the bushings rest towards the PCB.
Now place the insulated rear Bracket on the CPU, with the insulation towards the PCB.

Turn the hexnuts all the way up to the head of each screw and place a flat bushing on each afterwards.

Now stick the screws through the holes in the rear mounting bracket through the PCB and insulation all the way down to the Heatsink, it can be a bit cumbersome to catch the screwholes, so try every one of them in turn, even if you fail the ffirst one, once you have to of them in place the rest comes more easy.

Turn the screws clockwise with a screwdriver, untill you feel "natural" resistance.
If the CPU is not maintaining close contact with the CoolPlate, you can tighten things up by turning the hexnuts counter clockwise towards the Rearplate. Thereby encreasing the preasure further. When the PCB does no longer move up and down from the Heatsink when you press firmly on the Rearplate you are finished. If you do not make this double check, you risk that either the Peltier or the CPU does not make proper thermal contact, resulting in a very hot CPU when you turn it on.
At last you can connect the electrical wires from the Fans to the connectors on the Peltier wires, such that the Fans get power from the same outlet as the Peltier. IT is very important that you do not connect the Fans to the MB directly, as possible BIOS settings may turn off the Fans, when the CPU goes into standby, resulting in a very dangerous Coctail, as the Peltier element does not obtain sufficient Cooling in such an insident, and may selfdestroy.

So finally yours should look something like this!

Important! When mounting the CPU-unit back into the MB, make sure to press directly on the PCB, ensuring that it is firmly mounted in place in the CPU Slot1 Connector. Connect the Power connector preferably in a spare HD power cable, as the Peltier consumes a considerable amount of Power.

Power-up your PC, and check that the fans runs, and the CPU comes back alive again. You are now ready for a considerablre amount of Overclocking. If your CPU temperature comes above 30 degrees Celcius, you should check that you have sufficient Case Cooling, and perhaps recheck your assembly of the Cooling unit. Normally you should be able to maintain app. 10-20 degress Celcius at normal Windows activity, depending on which Peltier element power you have selected.

 

Remember: if you want to upgrade to a Pentium processor, you can still use the very same CoolWhip™ Air heat sink, just follow the assembly instructions for that instead!